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When curating a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee renowned award-winning names. Yet, situated prominently among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying area of northern London.

A Surprise Accolade

This small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. This honour has left the family totally surprised.

“I’m utterly astonished,” says a family member, alluding to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their humble restaurant achieving such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The compact space, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the food, and this eatery more than succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent texture.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can cost many times that price.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at elite restaurants. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is set to resonate beyond its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this gastronomic achievement.